A day poking about Bourton-on-the-Water and Stow-on-the-Wold

Trip summary:

Cost: <£10 (if you bring your own food and don't take in any of the tourist attractions that charge)

Time: A day trip

Distance: Just shy of 60 miles from Bristol to Bourton-on-the-Water

Start/end point:Car park at Bourton-on-the-Water on Rissington Road, beside Birdland Park and Gardens

Equipment:Comfortable walking shoes

Bring: Rucksack filled with snacks, a packed lunch if you want to save some money and a camera.

Special notes: This was a two-part day...poking about Bourton-on-the-Water in the morning and then after lunch a 5km walk in Stow-on-the-Wold.

Many bridges cross the Windrush River.

Bourton-on-the-Water

We first encountered this little gem when we bought our canoe earlier this spring from a place very nearby. The gentleman we bought it from recommended we drive back through Bourton-on-the-Water as it really was "worth a look". So we did.

It was a glorious sunny day in spring and the place was packed! Had we been able to find parking and had we not been driving around with a canoe on the roof, we probably would have stopped as it was absolutely buzzing with activity. There looked to be a market going on and the numerous bridges crossing the tranquil river that runs through town were the quaintest thing I had ever seen. Alas, Shelby and I just turned to each other and said "we have to come back here". Six months later, we did.

A path runs along the river from the parking lot straight
through town.

We parked on the street initially, but this was limited time parking, so we moved over to the parking lot on Rissington Road, beside Birdland Park and Gardens. It's a maximum of seven quid for the day if I recall, and there seemed to be plenty of spots, though I would imagine on a busy summer day they get filled quickly. 

We ambled along the path that runs along the Windrush River and Morgan was thrilled to spot trout in there, so we spent quite a lot of time watching the fish (as usual). The path takes you back and forth across a number of little bridges and the whole place is really quite adorable. We left the canal for a bit and had a look along some of the other streets. I should imagine this village has the highest number of tea rooms per capita than anywhere else in the UK...it was astonishing. A reflection, no doubt, of the number of tourists that come through during peak season.

The smells wafting out of the family run artisan bakery, Bakery on the Water,  lured us in for a hot drink and pastry. 

The HP Sauce ride-along toy at the Cotswold Motoring
Museum & Toy Collection.

Feeling refueled, we decided to take in the Cotswold Motoring Museum & Toy Collection. Prices were reasonable (£5 for and adult, £3.50 for children 4-16, £15.50 for a family (2 adults, 2 children)) and it housed two things Morgan loves...cars and toys. It was well worth the cost of entry as the collection was extensive. Every square inch was covered - look up and there were old bicycles and paraphernalia hanging from the ceiling, vintage items set up between the amazing collector cars, and Brum (who as a Canadian I was not familiar with at all, but is apparently a TV personality). The toy collection was also extensive and the oddest one by far was a ride-on HP Sauce bottle!

Morgan's lunch was a bit much. We adults all
pitched in and helped.

Somewhat overwhelmed by lunch options, we decided on The Riverside Cafe, as it had simple soup and sandwich options. Unfortunately, it didn't have a children's menu and so Morgan's portion was somewhat...ahem...large. Our experience at the Cafe wasn't great. Shelby's chair nearly broke, we waited quite a long time for food (though not as long as others around us), and they don't offer the salad bar in the off season. However, when the food came it was good. We definitely all left full.

Having looked through the shops, meandered up and down streets, stared at fish in the river, and looked at old cars, we decided it was time to move on from Bourton-on-the-Water. That slow shopping walk can be a killer and we needed to stretch our legs a little more. We headed for Stow-on-the-Wold.

Stow-on-the-Wold

The view along our walk.

We chose Stow-on-the-Wold as it contains one of the hikes in my book 100 Greatest Walks in Britain. It's hike 38 if you have it and it starts in the town and describes a 10.5 mile hike through farmland and woodland. As we didn't have time (or the legs) to do the whole thing, we did a 3.27 mile return hike leaving from Park Street. We found free parking on the street and went from there.

The walk takes you down through Maugersbury and past a very interesting place called Half Moon House, which is named for it's crescent-shaped design. You pick up the bridleway on the right just past Half Moon House, and it's paved and quiet but not particularly interesting. It eventually leads to a farm and then up a hill where we were rewarded with a beautiful view with a low autumn afternoon sun. We decided to turn around at that point.

It's clearly the other part of the 10.5 mile hike that has earned it a spot in the 100 Greatest Walks! 

The route:

Food:

There is no shortage of places to eat in Bourton-on-the-Water. We didn't eat in Stow-on-the-Wold, but there were definitely a few options that we spotted.

Notes for the kids:

Morgan loves to look in shops and he certainly doesn't expect something everywhere we go (though he did end up with a lovely car from the museum shop thanks to his Nan), so this kind of a trip works for him. This would, undoubtedly, be a nightmare for some people with their kids and I appreciate that. The river, however, can occupy an amazing amount of time with children. I would say the museum is definitely worth it and there's a number of other attractions if you don't mind spending the money, such as Bird World and the Model Village.

Trip highlights

For Morgan, the highlight was the trout in the river - no surprise there. I enjoyed walking through the village. Shelby loved the museum.

What we'd do better next time

We would choose a more interesting part of the hike to do as the walk in Stow-on-the-Wold didn't have any particularly endearing features.

Additional photos:

Morgan posing in front of an old car on the street in
Bourton-on-the-Water.

The streets were busy on 1st November - I can't
imagine what this place is like in the height of summer.

The views along our walk.

The road into Maugersbury.

At Oxleaze Farm take the right fork, which feels a little
like you're running through their farm yard (which
you are).

Morgan with his Nan.

The turnaround point.

Camping in the Cotswolds: Thistledown bliss

Trip summary:

Cost: £25-£50 (not including fuel and food)

Time: Recommend 2 nights minimum

Distance: About 30 miles north of Bristol

Start/end point: Thistledown farm, Tinkley Lane, Nympsfield, Stroud, GL10 3UH

Equipment: Camping gear (see detailed list below)

Bring: Activities for kids and food

Special notes: We have a two night minimum policy on camping where possible because it gives you one day where you are neither having to set up or pack up camp - essential for true relaxation. 

The joys of crèching

There are many examples across the animal kingdom where one or two adults within a social group will care for the young of others as well as their own. This is known as crèching. It's common among many birds, including the Canada goose, Brandt's cormorant and common eider, as well as social mammals such as lions and, of course, our own species.

Our ring of tents in 3rd pasture at Thistledown.

We have a group of friends that gathers each year at Thistledown Farm, near Stroud, and it is an idyllic setting for letting children run free and allowing adults to tap into their inner child. Although group camping is definitely not a quiet family trip, there are lots of incredible benefits to having the numbers. First and foremost, there are lots of children and that generally means they are very good at entertaining themselves. If you have a few responsible older ones in there...even better.

With our tents set up in a circle, we created a safe space where the kids could play in the middle without disturbing other campers. The network of guylines from the tents formed a bit of a fence, tripping children as they attempted to escape the circle - an unintended but useful consequence as it at least slowed them down as they ran for the woods and ponds!

Piglets, rolling hills, a pond and wild garlic galore

Thistledown is a family managed, organically run 70-acre farm and the owners are really lovely and extremely conscientious about their environment and making sure all their campers have a good experience. This is our third consecutive year of coming to Thistledown and we have enjoyed watching its transformation over the years.

Wheelbarrows are available to carry gear down to the car-
free campsites. However, the biggest challenge is
getting the children to relinquish them afterwards.

Two of the three camping areas are car free, which has been a big selling point for us. There are wheelbarrows at the parking lot to help you get your gear down, but if you can't be bothered then the staff will take it down for you in one of their vehicles for £5. We have always gone the wheelbarrow route, partly because we're cheap but mostly because it's fun. Morgan gets in the wheelbarrow usually and it simply becomes part of the adventure - though I noticed it was a lot harder going back up the hill with him in the wheelbarrow than it was three years ago!

With camp set up and the kids nestled into the tents, it's a
special time for the adults to gather around the fire, half a drink,
share some laughs, or just enjoy the peace and quiet.

We've always stayed in 3rd pasture near the giant wooden mushroom. It has become 'our spot'. We find its got perfect access to pretty much everything. The pigs (and piglets if you're there in spring) are just along the path as you walk from the parking lot, there's access to the showers and toilets and just down the hill is a little pond and creek, woodlands filled with bluebells and wild garlic, and a swing hanging from an old tree. Really, what more could you need?

Just half an hour out of the north end of Bristol, we go up Friday night and by 6pm the tents are set up, the children are fed and people are starting to contribute some rather gourmet looking dishes to the picnic table for the adult feast. The day's work is forgotten and it's time to sit back, have a drink and catch up with friends while the kids run around and roll down the gentle slopes. Perfection.

Activities for the kids when camping

We find that at Thistledown, there's lots to do without any additional forethought or equipment. Here's just a few that we've found:

• There are some classic tree swings around the property for the kids to enjoy - always popular
• The pigs and sheep are always good entertainment
• The pond up near the reception area has newts and frogs and dragonflies and is definitely worth exploring
• There is a Roman trough that empties into a woodland pond at the bottom of 3rd pasture and if the kids could just live here, they would. This is where crèching is ideal as the kids will spend hours in here and the adults can just take turns supervising.

  

  Morgan playing with his friends Tomas and Sofia in the
  trough that runs into the pond near 3rd pasture. 

• There are all sorts of walks around the property and you can get a map when you check-in. We've been on many of these, including a longer walk that connected with the National Trust's Woodchester Park property, where there was ice-cream and tea and cakes as an excellent incentive for tired little legs.
• Dusk and evening walks have allowed us to see badgers and bats on the property and this year we were privileged to be camped beside a tree with two owl fledglings - still downy.

With a little more forethought and equipment we have incorporated some of these activities for the kids over the years:

• Geocaching/treasure hunt around the property
• Frisbee, football, rounders, cricket
• Parachute games
• Kite flying
• Wheelbarrow races
• Boules
  

  

  Sofia among the wild garlic in the woodlands around
  Thistledown farm.

We've also gone into the Stroud Farmer's market on Saturday morning each year. It's a fabulous little market, usually with some live music and we always grab lunch when we're there. I can't recommend Streetmed falafel bar enough - I grabbed lunch there the first year and I haven't gone anywhere else for fear that anything else might be a disappointment.

Our camping list:

We keep a list, as it just makes it easier to check it off before we walk out the door. This is ours...modify as necessary:

• tent
• mallet
• air mattress (& pump) or thermarests
• sleeping bags and pillows
• tarp
• cook stove and gas
• matches and newspaper
• torch/headlamps
• first aid kit
• kitchen kit (we keep this box packed at all times) includes: pots, dishes, cutlery, washing up liquid, tea towels, sponge, glasses, mugs, bamboo sticks (for marshmallows or kebabs)
• cooler
• towels
• toys: parachute, balls, frisbees, kites, boules
• water bottles
• camp chairs
• ropes
• spare car key
• hats and sun cream

Directions:

Generally aim for the windmill on Tinkley Lane...but for far better (and more specific) directions, visit Thistledown's very comprehensive website.

Trip highlights: 

The highlight for me this year was tracking down the sounds of the owl fledglings to a nearby tree and catching a glimpse of them with their round fuzzy bodies and beautiful big eyes. 

What we'd do better next time: 

Honestly, after our third year I think we have it down to a science. We love the place, we love the people and we hope it becomes a long standing tradition. I can't wait to see what changes have taken place at Thistledown next year and hopefully I'll have the opportunity to enjoy a pizza out of their new clay oven (something I've always wanted in my garden).

Additional photos:

Morgan walking the trail from the car park to 3rd pasture.

Morgan and Sofia exploring near the pond - looking for
aquatic invertebrates.

Shelby and Morgan spotting newts in the pond near reception.

Piglets near the car park for 3rd pasture. Too cute for words!